Mortadella is breaking out of the deli section—that is, if chefs have anything to say about it. With add-ins like black pepper, myrtle berries, and pistachios, the Italian sliced sausage is different from your average bologna, so New York City chefs are reaching for it to add porky flavor to everything from puff pastries to pizza pies.
At Momofuku Bang Bar, celebrity chef David Chang replaces the bacon in a bacon, egg, and cheese with marinated mortadella carved shawarma-style off a rotating spit and loaded onto griddled flatbread with gooey American cheese, pickled onions, and mustard. Nick Anderer introduced a Roman Reuben sandwich to his menu at Martina Pizzeria: His version of the deli classic piles mortadella with fontina cheese, artichoke slaw, and hot-pepper dressing atop toasted rye bread.
Other bologna-sandwich upgrades can be found at Katana Kitten, a Japanese-style cocktail bar that offers panko-crusted mortadella katsu sandwiches, and Emmy Squared, where New Orleans’s iconic muffuletta is deconstructed as the Emmyletta, a pizza with mortadella, pepperoni, and giardiniera. And our own Rachael Ray is including gougères with mortadella mousse in her upcoming book, Rachael Ray 50 (out in October!), proving the trend is no baloney.