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  • Bring a large pot of water to a boil, salt it, add the penne and cook until al dente, about 7 minutes. Drain, reserving a ladleful of the pasta cooking water.

  • While the pasta is working, in a medium dutch oven, bring 1 1/2 cups water to a boil; salt it. Add the cauliflower cored side down, cover and cook until just tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the cauliflower with a slotted spoon, spider or tongs and let cool slightly. Cut into bite-size florets.

  • Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the EVOO, 4 slow turns of the pan, over medium heat. Add the anchovies to melt into the oil. Stir in all the chiles, the celery, onion, bell pepper and garlic; season with salt, pepper and the oregano. Cook for 6 to 7 minutes. Stir in the reserved pasta cooking water, the parsley and lemon juice. Stir in the pasta and cauliflower and toss to combine. Turn off the heat.

  • In a large skillet, heat the peanut oil over high heat. Add the seafood and cook until firm and opaque; season with salt, pepper and the Old Bay. Add the vermouth and deglaze.

  • Add the seafood to the pasta and toss. Serve hot or refrigerate and serve cold (if serving cold, drizzle more EVOO on top and sprinkle with a little more finely chopped garlic and fresh herbs).