As soon as the Yankee Marina on Lake George, New York (where I grew up), opens, I look forward to driving our little wooden speed boat, Delicious, up the lake to the Algonquin. I always get a Fish Point sandwich. Here’s an at-home version with my special tartar sauce. The sauce is vegan, thanks to mayo that’s made with aquafaba (chickpea water). We bake frozen fries to serve alongside with malt vinegar and salt.