WINNER: PIZZERIA BIANCO
623 E. Adams, Phoenix, pizzeriabianco.com
Magherita pizza $11, serves 1
No one thinks to call
Phoenix the pizza capital
of America, much less the
world. In fact, it would be fair
to say that before transplanted
New Yorker Chris Bianco opened
Pizzeria Bianco in 1994, Phoenix
was not even considered the crust
capital of Arizona. Now food lovers
from around the globe make the
pilgrimage and wait three hours for
food so good even my Neapolitan
friends grudgingly acknowledge that
the best pizza in the world is being
made in Phoenix.
Arrive a couple of hours before
Bianco opens for business and
you’ll find a small stone-and-wood
building plunked down in Phoenix’s
Heritage Square. In front of the building is a lawn where you will undoubtedly meet other pilgrims
who have come to try the pies with
the outsize reputations.
Your fellow linemates will ask
each other:
Are we crazy? How
far did you travel? Could any plate
of food be worth this kind of time
commitment? Are we a bunch of
suckers? Your questions won’t be
answered for hours.
Once your rear has finally found
its way into a seat, you peruse the
short menu. The same six pizzas
have been on the menu for years
now. This is not because Bianco is
on autopilot. It’s because he believes
each pizza is perfect.
In addition to the plain
Margherita
and
Marinara pies, there’s the
Wiseguy (smoked mozzarella,
roasted onion and fennel sausage),
the
Sonny Boy (fresh mozzarella,
salami and olives), the
Biancoverde
(fresh mozzarella, parmesan,
ricotta and arugula) and Bianco’s masterpiece, the
Rosa, topped with
an oddly delicious combination of
parmesan, red onion, rosemary
and Arizona pistachios. Yes,
pistachios—inspired by a sesame
seed-and-parmesan pizza Bianco
sampled in Liguria, Italy.
The fresh salads and vegetables
add to the restaurant’s appeal, as
does its upbeat energy. The diners
laugh and talk loudly (mostly about
the food), and you feel honored
to be here, watching Bianco do
his thing. If you love pizza, it’s like
the rush music lovers get out of
listening to John Coltrane play
saxophone. Bianco, the pizza
whisperer, is rapidly going about
his business with an intensity
usually displayed by air traffic
controllers. After taking one bite,
you will agree that you are sitting
squarely in the best pizzeria in
America, maybe the world. And
you will cancel tomorrow’s plans
and do it all over again.
MEET THE PIZZAIOLO: CHRIS BIANCO
Where did you learn to make pizza?
I started working at a
pizzeria in Westchester,
New York, when I was 13.
There was no indication
that this was going to
be my future, but I got
to listen to Bobby Darin
records and eat free
slices. I learned that I like
serving people.
How did you end up in Phoenix?
I was in New York, and I
was cold and tired. There
are a lot of things I love
about New York, but it
was a battle. The cold
was bad for my asthma. I
wanted to see what else
was out there. I found I
have a real connection to
the desert. I still love to
disappear into it.
What keeps you excited about pizza?
This will disappoint
pizza aficionados, but
here’s the truth: It’s not
really about the pizza.
It’s about working with
organic farmers with
good intentions who are
trying their best, and
sharing that collective
experience. But pizza has
served me well, and
I hope I’ve served it well.
Where do you see yourself going in the future?
It’s important for me to
pass on what I’ve learned
to another generation
of pizza makers. If I’ve
raised the bar at all, it’s
only so that others can
dance on it.
MORE LIKE THIS
The Search for America's Best Pizzeria »
Chris Bianco's tips on how to make a good pizza »
Throw a pizza party »
Get the recipes for Hot Skillet Pizzas »