We’ve already told you how much we love mash-ups. Whether it’s two Italian classics crammed into one (hello chicken parm pizza!) or a French onion soup-Chinese dumpling hybrid, the delicious end results are greater than the sum of their parts. Such is the charm of the ramen burger. When you cross the all-American sandwich with the ultimate Japanese comfort food, everybody wins.
What does a “women’s” food magazine look like nowadays? While some of our readers might say “Every Day with Rachael Ray,” there’s a new(ish) mag in town devoted exclusively to celebrating women and the food that they make (and love). It’s called Cherry Bombe, if you haven’t heard of it, and this past weekend the magazine came to life in New York City at its first ever conference, deliciously called “The Cherry Bombe Jubilee.”
Photo courtesy of Cherry Bombe
The day-long event attracted all-stars from the culinary world (Alice Waters, Ruth Reichl, Marion Nestle, plus plenty of others), as well as inspiring ladies from other walks of professional life—makeup maven Bobbi Brown shared her cosmetics success story; Laurie David, producer of An Inconvenient Truth, promoted Fed Up, her upcoming film on the link between sugar and obesity.
Cherry Bombe’s founders, Claudia Wu and Kerry Diamond (who also starred in our April Southern brunch feature), curated panels that ran the gamut from food politics to entrepreneurship, and real talk prevailed. Gabrielle Hamilton of Prune in New York City and the Los Angeles restaurateur Suzanne Goin had a frank (and at times grim) appraisal of what it means to juggle motherhood and have a restaurant. Goin fought back tears when she recounted a story of her son telling his babysitter, “Some kids don’t have nannies, they have moms.” (Did we mention that the moderator, Bon Appétit’s Christine Muhlke, had her own toddler in her lap for much of the interview?!)
Challenges were identified, to be sure (“maybe we should change the model for what we consider success for women in food,” suggested former Gourmet editor Ruth Reichl in response to recent cries of inequality in the kitchen). But mostly, the discussions were encouraging for attendees, many of whom represented different parts of the food world today—cooking, academics, business ownership, farming, writing and more—and most of whom were women. “At 25 I didn’t actually know I could have a career in food,” said Reichl in a closing interview. And we all know how that turned out. If things have changed so dramatically since Reichl was 25, then think how much more they can change in the years ahead? To be discussed, perhaps, at next year’s Jubilee.
If you can’t get enough Root Vegetable Tzimmes or Challah Honey Bread Pudding from our January/February New Jewish Deli Cuisine story, wait until you try these. Two delicious delis have graciously shared with us their recipes for popular menu items, so if you can’t get to New York City or San Francisco, you can make these comfort-food classics at home:
Fried Noodle Kugel from Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen in San Francisco, CA
MAKES ¼ pan of kugel = 1 dozen fritters
PREP 30 min
COOK 5-10 min
Cold leftover noodle kugel (see below for recipe)
2 qts. vegetable oil, for frying
1 cup flour
1 tsp. potato starch
¼ tsp. salt
1 egg yolk
1 ¼ cups seltzer water, chilled
Maple syrup, warmed, for serving
Maldon sea salt, for serving
1. Squeeze a 1 tbsp. portion of cold kugel to form a tight ball. Repeat with remaining leftover kugel. Place balls on a baking sheet and refrigerate until ready to fry.
2. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot heat the oil over medium-high heat, until a deep-fry thermometer reads 350 degrees. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk the flour, potato starch and salt. Stir in the yolk and half of the seltzer to make a thick batter. Gently stir in the remaining seltzer.
3. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, dunk kugel balls into the batter and carefully transfer the hot oil, one by one, working in batches if necessary. Fry, using the tongs to gently move the balls if they are sticking to one another or the bottom of the pot, until golden, about 3 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Serve with a drizzle of warm maple syrup and a sprinkling of sea salt.
Wise Sons Noodle Kugel
PREP 1 hour plus 1 hour rest
COOK 45 minutes
2 2/3 cups cottage cheese
2 cups sour cream
2 cups whole milk
1 1/3 cups plain, whole milk yogurt
1 cup orange juice
1 tbsp. pure vanilla extract
1 3/4 cups granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups raisins
8 cups wide egg noodles
1 stick butter
3 cups corn flakes
3/4 cup light brown sugar
1. Grease a 15×19-inch baking dish. In a food processor, puree the cottage cheese until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl and whisk in the sour cream, milk, yogurt, orange juice, eggs, vanilla, sugar and raisins.
2. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the noodles according to package directions, until just past al dente. Drain and rinse under cold water until cool. Transfer the noodles to the prepared baking dish and pour 8 cups of the filling mixture over top. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour or overnight.
3. Preheat the oven to 350º. In a large bowl, crush the cornflakes until crumbled into pieces no larger than a grain of rice. Meanwhile, in a small saucepot, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the brown sugar until dissolved, about 2 minutes. Pour the mixture over the crushed cornflakes and stir gently to coat. Cover kugel evenly with cornflake topping and bake for 45 minutes or until top is browned and kugel is set in the center. Serve hot or cool completely, then refrigerate.
Smoked Whitefish Salad with Horseradish Cream from Mile End Delicatessen in New York City
SERVES 4 TO 6
PREP 30 MIN
8 oz. boneless smoked trout or other white fish
I sour pickle, finely diced
1 large rib celery, peeled and finely diced
1 small red onion, finely diced
3 scallions, thinly sliced
3 tbsp. chopped fresh dill
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 tbsp. EVOO
½ cup coarsely chopped fresh celery leaves
½ cup drained prepared horseradish in beet juice
½ cup crème fraiche
4 to 6 bagels, split, for serving
Plain cream cheese, for serving
1. Peel the skin off the trout and flake the flesh into a medium bowl. Add the pickle, celery, onion, scallion and dill and toss well. Drizzle the lemon juice and oil on top, season with the pepper and toss well. Refrigerate until ready to serve (up to 2 hours).
2. In a small bowl, stir together the horseradish and crème fraiche. Add the celery leaves to the smoked fish mixture. Spread bagel halves with cream cheese, spoon on some of the smoked fish and drizzle with the horseradish cream.
You’re not seeing things, I really did just use the words, “bacon” and “latte” in the same sentence. Treehaus, a Midtown hot spot for artisanal coffee, pastries, sandwiches, crepes and an all-day buffet — and an EDWRR staff favorite! — has introduced the king of all flavored espresso beverages: A bacon latte.
I was a little skeptical at first, wondering how on earth someone could infuse the smokey, salty flavors of bacon into a latte, but the barista told me it was a combination of maple syrup and a top-secret “essence” crafted by himself and the restaurant owner. It’s neither a syrup nor a flavored cream, and the most mysterious part of all is — get this — it’s completely vegetarian! Garnished with a strip of candied bacon (the only non-vegetarian element) and a milk foam piggy, this was certainly one of the most interesting — and adorable! — ways to start my Friday morning.
The latte was rich and sweet from the maple syrup, with no need for additional sweetener. There was a smoky aftertaste which definitely resembled that of a succulent strip of bacon, but I found myself missing that true wake-up-and-smell-the-bacon bacon flavor. But my latte was thoroughly enjoyed, especially alongside another one of Treehaus’s bacon concoctions, a bacon Rice Krispie treat!
Carnivores and vegetarians unite: If you’re in need of a midday pick-me-up (trust me, this thing is strong), the bacon latte is calling your name.